Tag Archives: Space Marines

Model Making in the Torrential Rain

I originally planned for May to be spent tackling the various paint shop jobs that are outstanding, but with May 2021 in the UK being one of the wettest on record it wasn’t very viable to do much of that work. So most paint jobs were put on hold for the month. I don’t know about the rest of the country, but I think there were only two days of the whole month when it didn’t rain in Swindon.

Not being able to get outside much was a bit depressing, but I kept myself busy with working on my army of yellow space people.

Terminator Assault Squad:

Firstly, I noticed that some of those claw brandishing terminator guys from my previous blog had suspiciously big arms while others had surprisingly tiny ones. I went back to my 3D print software and did some measuring to create (in my mind) the perfect proportioned arms and shoulder pads. This took quite a few trial and error print prototyping sessions, but I finally got there and I stuck them together. I even managed to find some files with the insignia for my army included on their shoulder pads!

Assault terminators looking frightening

Resin Model Fail:

I had a pretty significant resin printing disaster while doing some cleaning and removing of supports from my resin prints. At the time my water heater in the house had broken down, so I tried to make do with some hot water from the kettle mixed with some cold water, and decided (like an idiot) to wash all my outstanding prints together. As it turns out the water was too hot and it cracked the majority of my prints leaving me with about 4 months of wasted material. I was surprisingly un-phased by this, I think because I was content to start again with some of these models (now having learnt a lot about how the printer can run more effectively).

Hot water is not a good option for cleaning resin prints. About 6 months work all gone.

Forgeborn Ancient from Laserforge Miniatures (Redemptor Dreadnought Proxy)

I also tackled a couple of new model prints. The first was a big robot that is a proxy model for a Dreadnought Redemptor from LaserForge Miniatures, which although it is a lovely model, it came pre-supported and the supports are far too weak to sustain the bulk of the prints on my Elegoo Mars Pro printer. I contacted the manufacturer about it, but they weren’t particularly helpful, but I might ask them again about a revised support system (because I hear there is a new file about).

After a day of running calibration tests (which I might cover in a future blog) I can’t say I learnt too much that I didn’t already know, but I decided to slow the printer lift speed down and increase the curing time for each layer. This improved the success of these prints, but it still has issues with certain parts, like the fingers and pipes, so it is worth considering this if you choose to print one.

I also put it on the wrong base to start with (I kind of hate Games Workshops myriad of base sizes), so I had to rebuilt it on a 80mm base.

After so many failed prints, this project almost put me off the 3D printer for a while, but in fairness, I haven’t had too many of those issues until working on this particular model. I would normally add my own supports, but with pre-supported models, you only have limited opportunities to do that.

I still wouldn’t dare try print this with only the supports included, but as I say, hopefully a revised support file will be available for this model soon.

The Forgeborn Ancient looking great, but far too many failed prints to get to this point.

Land-Raider Crusader

I’ve wanted one of these for a long, long time as it seemed very well-suited to my Imperial Fist army. I don’t think a plastic variant existed at the time I first wanted one, I think it was only available via some Forgeworld resin cast upgrades, but a plastic variant has appeared in my time away from the hobby.

The sprue seemed a little tired out with some thin areas and flash, so I assume this is probably coming towards the end of its viable production life, which makes me feel a bit old. That all being said, it was really fun to put together which I did while watching the Eurovision song contest.

Land-raider in Eurovision

The front siege doors on the land-raider have a quite clever mechanism to allow the two doors to open and close together, which is neatly fixed in place by the sides of the tank.

I spent quite a bit of time installing magnets in weapons slots and doorways so I could swap out all the guns and print different ones to field different Land-raider variants. It is a shame that Games Workshop don’t include those options as standard with the kit, but hopefully the 3D printer can compensate for that.

Land-raider construction
Land-raider magnetised set up

Vindicator Laser Destroyer

I noticed that one of the tanks with a particularly lethal output in 9th edition 40k was this tank with a ridiculous phallic gun. Having also found a relatively decent 3d print design I decided to print one.

The designer had weirdly cut the 3d model in two to help it print on smaller printers, but they have done so in quite an arbitrary way, so I had to try and make sure that the connecting sides were fairly clean and could be fused together. For this I painted on some uncured resin onto the join and cured it with a UV pen light. I then followed up with some green stuff filler to hide the seams and fix some areas that didn’t print so well. I wish I was better at filling things so you can’t see the seams, but I am happy with the final result at a cost of about £3.

Bunker and trench system:

This was my first major print on my FDM printer and is an amazing roughly 3ft length of trench system split into modular sections available from Battle Builder Tech. It took a couple of weeks to print, but mostly because of various issues with the 3D printer, which needed small fixes. Having replaced the bed surface and adapted the filament feeding tube, I have managed to get it to work consistently well.

I’m yet to paint or put this trench system together with all the final pieces, but it has had a couple of battlefield outings already and I’m really happy with the results.

Spartan Assault Tank:

Finally, I started to fall in love with an even bigger tank – the Spartan Assault Tank, so I printed one of these over a week. The first piece seemed a bit small compared to reference photos, so following some measurements on the printer, I increased the size by 1.1%, which seems to have given it a close match to the door size of the Land-raider.

Dry build of the Spartan.

I also printed the base of the model on the FDM Printer, thinking that this might be a better option to increase the tanks rigidity (and because the drop in detail will mostly be obscured behind the tank tracks). This seems to have been a good idea, as it did make glueing the model together much, much easier.

Spartan under construction showing both materials.

I did a similar job of magnetising all of the weapons sockets and doors on the Spartan, but I had to drill through the resin this time to make sure they fitted properly. Comparing my print against pictures of the Forgeworld Model, it seems that the finish on mine is much cleaner, but it lacks the interior detail that you would get if you bought the real deal.

It also doesn’t have an easy means of allowing the front siege doors to open and close, so I carefully hand-drilled through the resin doors with a pin vice and needle drills and inserted some brass rod into both doors to act as a hinge. I haven’t permanetly fixed the hinges into place, as they feel tight enough to cope with the occasional opening and closing they will have.

Siege doors hinged with brass rod

Joe has also traded me a collection of Forgeworld Imperial Fist insignia’s which included some Land-Raider doors. I annoyingly forgot to fit one to my Land-Raider Crusader, so I was keen to fit one to the Spartan, but the 3D print door was not quite to the same proportions for it to fit easily.

While building these models, I’ve tried hard not to get too hung up on perfectionism, but I did really want that insignia on my Spartan, so I decided to carefully (very carefully) cut the insignia off of the pre-moulded door it was grafted into and I sanded down the rear of the insignia until it was thin enough to fit onto my slightly smaller printed door. I could have made it a little thinner, but it ran the risk of breaking apart too much and, to be honest, these insignia’s are pretty bulky anyway.

Paintshop:

With June now here, the sun has returned, so I took the opportunity to get back out and paint up some of these miniatures. I am still experimenting with an approach to painting basecoats of yellow. My previous models were base-coasted in grey first and then two types of yellow from Halford’s spray cans. I was happy with this, but they do tend to require a lot of spraying of the undersides, because the grey easily shows through.

This time I started to experiment with a red primer base and some grey highlights on the assault terminators and laser destroyer, which gave the model a nice rusty shading effect in crevices. The more I have experimented with this, the more I have come to like the finished effect.

The various stages of painting the Assault Terminators

For the two tanks, I took this further and gave them a red base and white highlights followed by the two coats of different yellows. This time I only dusted the final, more golden yellow over the top and left more of the pale yellow on the sides. I think these tanks have the best finish. I painted the doors separately, so I had to do a quick respray with them in place to help the final base coat shading be consistent. My only criticism is that this took quite a long time to do (maybe a couple of hours), but both tanks are quite big compared to most models I make, and I was also separately painting tank tracks and weapons at the same time.

The Redemptor robot is still yet to arrive in paintshop, but I think that will probably be the last yellow model that will be going through paint shop this year, as I do need some time to actually finish painting them all up and the year does seem to be rushing by! Having said that, I may also respray the base coast on the laser destroyer to match the effect of the Land-raider and Spartan.

Grasslands out!

What lurks in the ‘bit box’?

Recently I rummaged through my Warhammer ‘bits box’. For those not familiar with the term, this is the box you gather over time which is full of spare sprue bits, models you never made, and models that people hand to you, when they notice your common interests. Early on in a hobbying life, the concept of the ‘bit box’ can be quite annoying, as you see other people can randomly say things like ‘oh, I had a whole spare model in my ‘bit box’, but you obviously don’t because all of your model stuff is shiny and new and your bit box is empty. Well after 20 years, there are a few delights in mine. Look!!! Witness some of my earliest warhammer modeling efforts!!!

My Night Lords from off of the 90s. Also note that everyone in this warhammer world really likes putting one foot up on something.

These are Nightlords, which I wanted to make when I first became interested in 3rd edition. I bought the Chaos Codex for £8, but didn’t carry on further with the army, as there were only a limited number of models available. Since the Night Lords have ended up with red wings in more recent editions, I’ve really gone off them.

I actually had some models earlier than this, I used to buy little metal Terminators with my lunch money from school. I’d save up the money for the week, and buy one model for £5 at the end of the week. I definitely had a Terminator with an autocannon and one with missile launchers. I painted them both as blood angels, but sold them to my friend while I was still at school. Amusingly, these two models are ones I could really do with now.

Anyway, sorry… I wandered off… where was I?

Some of these models in the bit box are things I acquired from friends and friends of friends and I noticed while looking that there were a few useful models that needed minimal effort to get them into my army. See that black-painted marine down there? The one with the really big gun? Yeah, he’ll do! There was also a collection Scouts of the same metal styling of my existing squad and one roughly painted one too.

The guy with the big gun in the ‘bit box’. I’ve also just noticed that guy with the axe next to him too (how did I miss him?)

I took the two painted models and decided to do some paint stripping. Stripping paint is easy ff the base model is made of metal, I used to use NitroMors fence paint stripper and the paint would be gone in seconds. NitroMors is also THE MOST aggressive paint stripping medium I’ve ever seen, and it ate my plastic gloves and started work on my hands back in the day, so be careful!! Also, any plastic in the chemical will just turn into a mushy mess.

Checking the models with a bit of a scratch and tap to see what they were made from, it seemed that the guy with the big gun was part metal and part plastic, so I ripped his metal arms off (sorry). I looked in the chemical cupboard and found I had some Phoenix Precisions ‘Super Stripper’ that is capable of stripping both plastic and metal, so I popped the models in a glass jar of the stuff for a couple of hours.

They didn’t quite get the eyes right, unless they were hoping for red eyebrows, if so, then they nailed it.
Super strip is obviously effective based on what it has done to its own bottle.
Sometimes we are the marines in a jar, sometimes we are the jar.

In the bit box, I also found some marines from 2nd edition (Vintage 1993), which are horrible mono-pose models, but they are happily welcome in my army so I built them up.

On the more modern side of life I have some unmade boxsets where I’ve indulged in the hope of getting back into the hobby, and I decided to make up a few key models like this Primaris Captain. He is mono-pose too, but looks much better. I am very disappointed in this mono-pose thing that Games Workshop are doing now. The model is designed so you can’t even turn his head! It is a very nicely designed sculpt though.

A more modern effort, but he can only really be positioned like this.

I was also printing a nice Chaplain proxy I found in resin, so I also printed him a special base.

Here is my resin printed Chaplain.

Returning to the paint stripper, I took an old tooth brush and wiped away the old paint. The previous owner seemed to start with them being Dark Angels and then converted them to be Black Templars (the Dark Angels painting seemed to be better). The paint came off with some scrubbing but was difficult to shift in some areas, so I dipped the models in some IPA for a bit and then the remaining flakes of paint started to break free immediately, and a few more scrubs (and a sink clean) later and they were as close to new as I was going to get.

Shiny and newish

The big gun guy’s body wasn’t very well put together and his head was firmly glued staring forwards, but the massive gun required him to be looking right, so I decided to swap his body for some parts for an additional tactical marine that were in the ‘bit box’ (see, I’ve become “that guy”) and gave him a new head that was looking in the right direction. So there we have it, a whole cavalcade of GW history on my workbench and in a box on a sunny spring day.

Dark Emperium Diaries – Log 0.1: The Sons of Dorn Return!

I have started to write up my adventures in learning the rules for Warhammer 40,000 over on my friend’s table top gaming blog, if you fancy a look…

I haven’t played Warhammer 40,000 for a really long time. Looking through my notes and photos I can see that my last game was back in 2012, where I fielded by little army of Necrons (ancient robo-skeleton aliens). My main force of Space Marines, the Imperial Fists, haven’t had an outing onto a tabletop since […]

Dark Emperium Diaries – Log 0.1: The Sons of Dorn Return!

Airbushing Test – x3 Airbushes, x2 Models and a lot of overthinking

Last night, I had a go at painting my two new psychic models for my Warhammer 40,000 army. I was after a nice bright blue with highlights. I was quite pleased with my previous one from earlier in the week, but he is brighter than I expected, but I came around to really like it. The only thing bothering me, was that I had undercoated him in a dark blue, which I can’t find or recall the make of. None the less, I decided to crack on with the two new miniatures.

I started off with my new replacement primer from Vallejo, which was epically better in application compared to my previous attempt with the Alcad II primer. I did note that it doesn’t seem to act as a filler, like the Alcad II does, so maybe I need to explore some other options too, but to be honest, the Halfords prime grey spray can does take some beating in my book. Also, for a grey, the Vallejo primer is surprisingly bright, and might as well be a white primer.

I used this in my cheap Amazon knock-off airbrush, and it worked very well for a £16 airbush, I must say.

Some grey primed models using the cheap Airbrush.

I then used my Iwata (HP-CH) brush to do the blue base coat, and I messed this up a bit by using two types of dark blue ComArt airbrush paint that I bought a while ago (I bought them with the Alcad, so I should have known this would be an issue), I didn’t really like how they were setting. They ran down into the crevices of the injection plastic model, but they coated the resin model quite nicely.

After a while I looked at the instructions to find these ComArt paints were mostly art paints for canvas and paper and have a transparent effect, so no wonder I was struggling with them. If I recall, I actually bought them to test out my airbrushing skills on paper (I think). I wasn’t finding them to run through the Iwata particularly well either. In fact, the Iwata felt like it was struggling a bit, and was operating at quite a low pressure compared to the Amazon brush. Furthermore, I can rarely remember the function of the little screw near the front of the Iwata brush, but it is no doubt super important. I’m sure it controls the flow, but I can rarely tell what it does when I turn it.

Struggling with ComArt blue…

I left the models to dry for a bit and then, for nostaglias’s sake, I decided to get out my Aztek A470. Looking at the helpful instructions I had left myself, it seemed like the black general purpose nozzle was my best bet, and I had to rejig my hose adapters to get it to fit my compressor. Honestly, I was really pleased with the airbrush, it has some power behind it and the trigger is very responsive, but maybe a bit too responsive from time to time. The main issue with the Aztek is that you feel very restricted in how you hold and place the brush because many of its paint feeder cups have a massive hole in the top, thus you feel very conscious of spilling paint everywhere.

The previous air compressor I had for the Aztek is a giant thing I was convinced and slightly pushed into getting by a model/art shop many years ago, but it was really more suited to art painting and lacked a regulator for the PSI, so it was probably receiving enough PSI to paint a car, for all I know, but the internet wasn’t a big thing back then and you had to go on the advice you were given (even if you suspected at the time, it wasnt that useful). The Aztek seems to play quite nicely with this much smaller, regulated compressor.

Aztek airbrush out and about

Returning to the set of Vallejo paints I bought recently meant that the paint on my two blue models started to settle down with additional layers. Moving back to the Iwata for some white highlights, I found it to be spraying too wide. I remembered a tip from a Model Rail DVD about removing the front ring and exposing the needle for finer work, so I did this, and it did help, but I still felt it was spraying more broadly than I’d expect. The white seemed to be thickening in the cup, so I added some Vallejo Flow Improver, and that made a dramatic difference and allowed very soft layers of white to be added over the blue.

As I got a finish about 60% close to what I wanted to achieve, I then called it a night and here are the results. Having a few airbrushes to mess with does really help assess consistency and flow. It is all well and good taking a recommendation on the ‘best’ airbrush, but that doesn’t tell you too much about how they operate in practice.

Not quite the same blue, but in some areas it matches.

Looking at the test sheet that came with the Iwata brush, it seems capable of much finer work than I have managed to get out of it yet (just look at that fine line). That could do all-sorts of good, but clearly, more practice is required.

The test sheet that came with the Iwata HP-CH. It can clearly do finer work than I’ve seen it do so far.

P.S. It feels unfair not to link this cheap amazon airbrush I’m using, here it is.